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Mon Feb 10, 2014 9:31 am

campingbox wrote: kombisutra wrote: The hoop Glide King made is 1/8th inch. I'm not sure what that equates to metric wise.

1/8" = .125"

I'm not sure why you are bringing up the metric system though....but an 1/8" is 3.175mm incase you need it in mm.

Well, all but three countries in the world use the metric system but that isn't why I referenced it. :wink: It was the measurement included in one of the previous posts so I just restated his measurement (I should have quoted it).

Ignore the metric reference. I can do the math. I'm just interested in the wall thickness regardless if you prefer SAE or Metric.

Mon Feb 10, 2014 9:35 am

kombisutra wrote: The hoop Glide King made is 1/8th inch.

^ Fantastic. Thanks for that. :D

Tue Feb 18, 2014 10:46 am

Just found this topic. Maybe my rotisserie can help someone. I used $300 in steel in 2012 to make this.

The strap you see was used to lioft the body. I used two comealongs around a ceiling joist.

Sat Aug 23, 2014 4:12 pm

Thank you desertgolfguy.

That boat winch was exactly what I needed. Don't know what kind of rotisserie I'll build in the end but this detail will be included on mind.

I'm leaning towards a cantilevered rotisserie that I saw on the earlybay UK website.

http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=28858

My problem is the same as everyone's - SPACE. Don't really have room in my smallish two car garage for a hoop rotisserie. The perimeter of the garage hosts my workbenches, air compressor, tablesaw, etc. For my birthday I want a second bigger garage. (Or a flat driveway) ;)

Wed Sep 17, 2014 7:37 pm

By any chance does anyone know the size of the plates pictured below? I need to know how long and how wide each plate is, and specifically the location and size of the holes. Also, I was thinking 1/4 inch plate, is that what others have used?

I have not pulled my front beam off yet, but in anticipation was going to start to make some plates to bolt onto where the beam bolts up on both sides. The plates will be used when the time comes for a rotisserie or caster like system to move my bus around for easy access.

I know many have mention in threads to just make cardboard templates. I had planned to do that, but have access to a metal shop at this time and don't have the time to pull the front end yet.

Thanks!

Wed Sep 17, 2014 8:57 pm

Bottom 2 holes about 6 3/8" apart:

Top 2 about 4 11/16" apart (centered over bottom holes):

3 1/2" between top and bottom lines:

Use those as a guide, then be prepared to ream the holes to account for human error and heat warping after you weld everything together. Good luck!

Thu Sep 18, 2014 6:52 am

south_island_surf wrote: Bottom 2 holes about 6 3/8" apart:

Top 2 about 4 11/16" apart (centered over bottom holes):

3 1/2" between top and bottom lines:

Use those as a guide, then be prepared to ream the holes to account for human error and heat warping after you weld everything together. Good luck!

The only measure that is missing, that is needed, would be the distances from a centreline to keep the relationship of the top and bottom holes proper.

Gordo.

Thu Sep 18, 2014 7:16 am

flemcadiddlehopper wrote:

The only measure that is missing, that is needed, would be the distances from a centreline to keep the relationship of the top and bottom holes proper.

Gordo.

im pretty sure most people now how to divide..

All the measurements needed were provided.

Thu Sep 18, 2014 6:53 pm

Thanks for the help with the measurements, I appreciate it!

If I feel my version is worthy of this thread, I will post some pictures once it is completed.

Mon Nov 10, 2014 10:27 pm

If anyone is looking for a simple solution to a rotisserie as a tool to help them restore a bus then look no further than the original post. Awesome,simple, quick. Just remember your angle has to be dead on. I chose to make my dodecadon out of 2x2x1/8 and the supports out of 3/16. STRONG. I also added supports at 90 degrees down from the mounting plates and decided that cutting the multigons in half was not necessary. It took me 19 hours and under $150 in steel. Now I can get to business without lying on the ground. Thanks for the idea.

Tue Nov 11, 2014 10:49 am

A couple pics of the rotisserie

Sun Nov 30, 2014 10:54 am

Finished my rotisserie yesterday 8)
I tried to keep it as simple as possible and because almost all the welding has been done I could place the front hoop around the doors. I'm solely going to use the rotisserie to sandblast the undercarriage and paint it afterwards (most likely completely sand green)
Although I did hesitate a bit to leave the doors in (because of weight) in the end I left them in and strapped them together.
I was inspired by JOGR's simple design wherein the U-beam used to make the hoops acts as a rail for the wheels.
The hoops are connected to the bus using a 1/3" thick steel plate on the front axle bolt holes and rear torsion beam.

If I found some heavy steal beams in the future I maybe gonna replace the wooden beams, but for now it works great. The wooden slats will be connected to keep everything square.

Both hoops are connected to eachother over the roof as this is the most wobbly part of the hoops. The downside of using U-beams in stead of square tubing for the hoops is the poor axial stiffness. I just jammed some foam pads between the roof and the hoops, but for what I can see now, that's not even necessary.

Really enjoyed building it. If someone needs dimensions I'll be happy to provide them.

Peter

Sun Nov 30, 2014 11:47 am

Excellent!!!!!!!!!!

Wed Feb 25, 2015 8:46 am

VW Bus Single Cab Rotisserie Welding a Bus: http://youtu.be/FzPzO6ECh8c

Wed Feb 25, 2015 2:13 pm

western auto wrote: VW Bus Single Cab Rotisserie Welding a Bus: http://youtu.be/FzPzO6ECh8c

FYI. The poster before you has the starring role in that video. :D

Mon Jun 15, 2015 5:51 pm

Hi,
I'm building a dolly system/rotisserie for my bus and I want to have the option of being able to flip it over 45 degree angle if I decide to do that later. As of now, I'm trying to get it high off the ground so it is easier to work on underneath. I may only need to keep it that way, but want the option down the road to tilt it.

I'm sort of following the example on this thread that is on a double cab.

My questions are as follow:

My over all height for my casters are 6 inches with the plates bolted on top of the caster. I'm using 2 inch square tubing. I'm going to run a 66 inch piece of 2x2 inch sq tubing under the bus in a horizontal position and both ends are cut at a 45 degree angle. The tubing will sit on the caster plates I made and I will weld the tube to the plates.

What is the max length I can go for the two vertical posts that will join to the tube that rests on the casters and then be welded up to the plate that gets bolted to the beam plates I made?

I measured my garage and the max I can go is 20 inches above the caster plates. In your opinion, for people who have built or used a tilt version, what is the max length of the vertical posts above the caster? The higher I go, will it be problematic if I decide to tilt it down the road?

I really wanted to make the round rotisserie for my bus, but I just don't have the height in the my current garage set up. I'm building workshop down the road that will have the height, but that is down the road.

I included a pic that shows what the horizontal and vertical tubes position and what they will look like once welded (they are not the exact pieces, just scraps for an illustration).

Thank you for any suggestions and or help.

Tue Jun 16, 2015 4:03 am

Peter_N wrote: Finished my rotisserie yesterday 8)
I tried to keep it as simple as possible and because almost all the welding has been done I could place the front hoop around the doors. I'm solely going to use the rotisserie to sandblast the undercarriage and paint it afterwards (most likely completely sand green)
Although I did hesitate a bit to leave the doors in (because of weight) in the end I left them in and strapped them together.
I was inspired by JOGR's simple design wherein the U-beam used to make the hoops acts as a rail for the wheels.
The hoops are connected to the bus using a 1/3" thick steel plate on the front axle bolt holes and rear torsion beam.

If I found some heavy steal beams in the future I maybe gonna replace the wooden beams, but for now it works great. The wooden slats will be connected to keep everything square.

Both hoops are connected to eachother over the roof as this is the most wobbly part of the hoops. The downside of using U-beams in stead of square tubing for the hoops is the poor axial stiffness. I just jammed some foam pads between the roof and the hoops, but for what I can see now, that's not even necessary.

Really enjoyed building it. If someone needs dimensions I'll be happy to provide them.

Peter

I want one of these style so bad. If anybody finishes with one and wants to part with it please let me know.

Tue Jul 12, 2016 4:34 pm

Tue Jul 12, 2016 4:41 pm

Fri Oct 28, 2016 8:39 am

Thought I would share my rotisserie design. It is based on some others from this thread.

I wanted easy access to the bottom of my bus but not have a frame in the way when working on the sides. Also wanted something cheap that I could easily build. So this is my 1/3 rotisserie that can be switched from side to side.

I can role it by myself once I figured out the tricks. Also built some rollers to help moving it around from 3" channel iron and angle with some cheap casters. Larger casters with locks would be better. Keeping the channel close to the floor makes it easy to use. I just tip the bus up a bit and slide them under the rotisserie.

I am very happy with how it works. Makes life much easier. I would hate to try this project without a way to roll the bus.

If anyone wants a PDF of the plans PM me.
Update: Link to Rotisserie PDF